Metiria Turei: Why the parliament necktie fight is so much more than some petty squabble

It’s time to abandon the culturally bound and frankly lazy concept of ‘business attire’, which is simply code for Pākehā visual symbols of authority, writes former Green Party leader Metiria Turei. At least they are not talking about how women MPs dress for a change. From that awful Makeover an MP segment to the awarding … Read more

The rise and rise of the merino wool shoe

Varieties of merino wool footwear are emerging faster than Netflix series about British aristocracy. Michael Andrew takes a look at the rise of the shoe that almost everyone – including his 95-year-old grandma – is wearing. Some might say it all started with Allbirds. After all, to the average consumer, it was the New Zealand-American … Read more

Esther Ng is 24, wildly successful and couldn’t care less about NZ fashion

Summer reissue: Esther Ng is the most successful New Zealand designer you’ve never heard of. Her label, Prix, has been seen on celebrities like Ariana Grande and Kylie Jenner, she has over 150,000 Instagram followers and she’s currently working from her bedroom. First published September 20 2020. Independent journalism depends on you. Help us stay … Read more

A short history of the New Zealand jersey

Summer reissue: From the highs (Ralph Hotere’s turtleneck), to the lows (Bain), the jersey is as much a part of this place as the jandal or the Swanndri, but it resists such easy nostalgia, writes John Summers.  First published May 31, 2020. Whenever it comes time to lure tourists back to our shores again, we … Read more

The never-ending quest to find a sexy ethical dress

Charlotte Muru-Lanning is an ethical consumer, and she wants a hot AF party dress for the festive season. Why is it so damn hard to find something sexy and sustainable?  For many, lockdown meant reflecting on our normal ways of doing things, as the pandemic cast a magnifying glass over how cruel, unsustainable and frankly … Read more

On swimwear, size, and finally feeling seen

Illustrator and creative Evie Kemp on a powerful – and unexpectedly moving – summer swimwear campaign. This story was first published on Ensemble magazine. I didn’t expect an Instagram post of a woman in a bikini to bring me close to tears. Not least one without a long-winded caption about body acceptance, but just a … Read more

After years in black, I braved dressing in glorious colour – and found myself again

It’s called ‘dopamine dressing’, and it promises to make you feel happier with just the change of an outfit. The notoriously colour-allergic Emily Writes took the plunge. Many years ago a New Zealand designer told me clothing is like Christmas wrapping: the gift is you. There have have been billions of words talking about fashion, … Read more

Ingrid Starnes is imagining a new future for fashion – make fewer clothes

Earlier this year, Ingrid Starnes was forced to close all its retail stores after Covid-19 severely disrupted its business. Now the fashion label is embarking on its next chapter with a brand new business model – one which promotes an honest and sustainable future for fashion, writes Ingrid Starnes managing director Simon Pound for Ensemble. … Read more

Meet Marama Davidson’s secondhand stylists

Prime minister Jacinda Ardern has long championed high-end locally-made fashion, she wore local brand Maaike at her election night party. Green Party co-leader Marama Davidson has recently started taking a different route with her wardrobe – choosing instead a secondhand suit for her election night appearance. In the past few years, Instagram has become one … Read more

Semi Permanent – an exhibition of NZ’s truly phenomenal creativity

With 27 speakers over a 10 hour event, Semi Permanent Aotearoa showed just how much New Zealand’s creative industry has to offer our economic and social rebuild. It’s a rare thing having 1,000 people in the same room at the same time in 2020. It’s even rarer to have 27 of a country’s most prestigious … Read more

What editors are actually buying

In the age of #gifted, what are people spending their own money on? Seven editors show Ensemble the receipts and share a recent, and genuine, style-related purchase. Leonie Hayden, editor of The Spinoff Ātea “I’m obsessed with discovering Māori and indigenous makers; my Instagram feed is mostly individuals and small businesses that make beautiful things inspired … Read more

The New Zealand designer behind Rihanna’s lingerie has gone solo

Chloé Julian’s been supporting boobs for years under big names like Stella McCartney and Agent Provocateur. Now, home in New Zealand, she’s launched Videris, a lingerie line that focuses on comfort over everything. After 15 years working in the lingerie industry, Hamilton-raised Chloé Julian knows the ins and outs of bras and knickers more than … Read more

Allbirds is launching a new T-shirt – and it’s partly made from crab shells

After years of specialising in low-carbon footwear, Allbirds has introduced a new line of sustainable apparel made from an unconventional yet innovative source. In April, when Allbirds announced it would be the first fashion label to introduce a sticker that measured the carbon footprint of each one of its products, it was seen as a … Read more

Esther Ng is 24, wildly successful and couldn’t care less about NZ fashion

Esther Ng is the most successful New Zealand designer you’ve never heard of. Her label, Prix, has been seen on celebrities like Ariana Grande and Kylie Jenner, she has over 150,000 Instagram followers and she’s currently working from her bedroom. On any regular weekday you’d likely find Esther Ng playing games on her PC. Streaming … Read more

The big government cover-up: The best and worst of public figures’ face masks

What do the masks of those in power – or vying to be – say about them? The co-founders of fashion and culture website Ensemble cast their style eyes over face coverings from the halls of power. Never before has an accessory become a must-have item so swiftly. Masks are fast becoming the ultimate symbol … Read more

How two industry heavyweights brought new fashion website Ensemble to life

Business is Boring is a weekly podcast series presented by The Spinoff in association with Callaghan Innovation. Host Simon Pound speaks with innovators and commentators focused on the future of New Zealand. This week he talks to the founders of new fashion website Ensemble. When Bauer Media announced the closure of its operations in April, … Read more

The aspirational age of fashion magazines is over

For too long, fashion magazines have been trading on a hyper-glossy, hyper-produced idea of aspiration – one that particularly jars in the current climate, writes Zoe Walker Ahwa for Ensemble.  We need more glamour. A style mantra for some, and an apt conclusion in the eulogy of my career as the editor of New Zealand’s … Read more

Ensemble is out to subvert fashion and lifestyle media as we know it

Driven by a lack of meaningful diversity and an advertising industry in disarray, Rebecca Wadey and Zoe Walker Ahwa have launched Ensemble, a new online fashion, beauty and lifestyle website aimed at upending the traditional high-gloss magazine model. It wasn’t our intention to launch during a level three lockdown in Tāmaki Makaurau. Working in an … Read more

Fashion house Ingrid Starnes to close all retail as Commercial Bay store opens

The local fashion industry takes another hit with Ingrid Starnes closing its stores after more than a decade. Fashion brand Ingrid Starnes has announced it’s closing the retail arm of its business due to the impacts of Covid-19. Its new store opening in Commercial Bay on Thursday and its current store in Ponsonby will remain … Read more

A short history of the New Zealand jersey

From the highs (Ralph Hotere’s turtleneck), to the lows (Bain), the jersey is as much a part of this place as the jandal or the Swanndri, but it resists such easy nostalgia, writes John Summers.  Whenever it comes time to lure tourists back to our shores again, we really must work on our slogan. Forget … Read more

How a local fashion label has used lockdown to give back to its customers

Business is Boring is a weekly podcast series presented by The Spinoff in association with Callaghan Innovation. Host Simon Pound speaks with innovators and commentators focused on the future of New Zealand. This week he talks to Emily Miller-Sharma, general manager at Ruby. One of the nicest things to come out of lockdown is a … Read more

Business is Boring with Grace Stratton from All is for All

Business is Boring is a weekly podcast series presented by The Spinoff in association with Callaghan Innovation. Host Simon Pound speaks with innovators and commentators focused on the future of New Zealand. This week he talks to Grace Stratton from All is for All. Around a quarter of New Zealanders have accessibility considerations, but very … Read more

Karen Walker on why she closed The Department Store after 10 years

After a decade in business on Auckland’s North Shore, the multi-storey complex that once attracted out-of-town shoppers has finally closed its doors. Its owner, fashion designer Karen Walker, explains why The Department Store had run its course. Opening an upmarket shopping hub is the last thing you’d expect to be doing in the middle of … Read more

Our Crocs to bear: Why the supremely ugly shoe will never die

Crocs aren’t ‘back’, they’re timeless. Josie Adams writes in defence of the injection-moulded clog that just won’t quit. When my flatmate mentioned she was going to fashion store North Beach, I asked if she could pick me up some Jibbitz™. “What the fuck is a Jibbitz™?” was her response, and then everyone laid into me … Read more

The highs and lows of running fashion label I Love Ugly

Business is Boring is a weekly podcast series presented by The Spinoff in association with Callaghan Innovation. Host Simon Pound speaks with innovators and commentators focused on the future of New Zealand. This week he talks to Valentin Ozich, founder of I Love Ugly. The fashion industry isn’t an easy one to break into. Very … Read more

Outland Denim: How a pair of pants on Meghan Markle helped create more than 40 new jobs

Business is Boring is a weekly podcast series presented by The Spinoff in association with Callaghan Innovation. Host Simon Pound speaks with innovators and commentators focused on the future of New Zealand. This week he talks to James Bartle, founder of ethical clothing brand Outland Denim. Right now, you’re probably wearing something you’re not super … Read more

Meet Kiri Nathan: the woman fusing te ao Māori with the world of fashion

Business is Boring is a weekly podcast series presented by The Spinoff in association with Callaghan Innovation. Host Simon Pound speaks with innovators and commentators focused on the future of New Zealand. This week he talks to Kiri Nathan, the co-founder of a Māori-inspired fashion brand that’s been gifted to some of the world’s biggest … Read more

Cheat sheet: State of the fashion business as another Kiwi company bites the dust

A footwear company goes into administration, the latest in a string of troubles. Is the industry hanging by a thread? Footwear company Ziera has gone into voluntary administration, leaving the future of its 45 stores uncertain. The family-owned business was founded in 1946 as Kumfs and currently employs 250 people across its stores here and … Read more

I thought the fashion world didn’t want people like me. I was wrong.

Throughout history, fashion has had the power to advance cultural discussions, writes Grace Stratton.  For its summer 2019 issue, fashion magazine i-D – constantly hailed as a source of inspiration in fashion culture – put neurodiverse environmental activist Greta Thunberg on its cover. By featuring an advocate like Thunberg so prominently, i-D is telling us … Read more